The Tour Divide begins June 13th in Banff, Canada, covering 4,400 km and 60,000 meters of elevation gain through the Rocky Mountains to the Mexican border. The race, an ultimate test of unsupported ultracycling, fulfills a lifelong dream. I’m looking forward to the challenge, community, and breathtaking landscapes.
When
The Tour Divide kicks off on Friday, June 13th in Banff, Canada, and will take me roughly 4,400 km (2,700 miles) by mountain bike with 60,000 meters of elevation gain. The route follows the spine of the Rocky Mountains, heading south all the way through the U.S. to the Mexican border.
For anyone interested in following along and watching some sleep-deprived ultra-cyclists battle joy and suffering alike, here are the key links:
When I first discovered ultracycling, the Race Across America was a huge inspiration—an ambitious dream that felt unreachable, yet deeply fascinating. Over time, however, the appeal of supported road races faded for me. I found myself drawn more and more to the adventure of unsupported racing in rugged terrain.
That shift in mindset eventually replaced the Race Across America on my bucket list with the Tour Divide—a race that’s fully unsupported, starts with several hundred kilometers through Canada, and then traverses the U.S. from north to south.
I’ve built quite a list of dream events by now, but the Tour Divide has always remained at the top. And this year, I finally get to tick it off the list. I’m beyond excited for the challenge—and equally for the incredibly diverse and beautiful landscapes along the way.
How
My journey begins on Tuesday, June 10th with a flight to Calgary, giving me two days to prep my gear and try (at least a little) to adjust to the time zone. Though let’s be honest—during the race, normal sleep patterns get tossed out the window anyway.
As a family, we had already planned a long road trip across the U.S. during the school summer holidays. After a few key conversations with my wife and my manager at work, I made the decision to extend my sabbatical by a few weeks to squeeze in the Tour Divide beforehand.
A huge thank you to my employer Bosch for making the sabbatical possible—and of course, most of all, to my wife and teenage sons for giving me the freedom to chase this dream. You guys are amazing!
Aspiration
The Tour Divide means two things to me. First and foremost, it’s the realization of a lifelong dream to ride this legendary route. That means finishing is my top priority—like in most races I do. But everyone who knows me also knows: I wouldn’t sign up for a race without trying to go as fast as I can. 😉
My longest race so far was the Silk Road Mountain Race in Kyrgyzstan, which took just under 8 days. The Tour Divide will likely take me twice as long, and I’m really curious to see how this extended duration affects me—especially mentally.
In shorter events, I’ve managed to stay focused despite exhaustion and lack of sleep. But over two or more weeks? That’s uncharted territory. Don’t worry—bike happy. 🙂
For now, I’m just incredibly excited to finally arrive in Banff, to get to the start line, and to immerse myself in the special community of riders. These events always bring unforgettable encounters with like-minded adventurers from around the world.
Wish me luck—for my mind, my gear, and the weather!
Not my Tour Divide race bike, but it shows me with my family as I get the final touches for my legs at the Santana Tandem Convention 😉
My participation in the Trans Balkan Race is coming up on its anniversary. Time to finally publish my report also on the blog. The experiences of each race day are paired with a few beautiful photos. Huge thanks to @transbalkanrace for letting me use them (photographers: @nils_laengner, @exploro.cc, @michelapedranti, @beatriceberla, @andreasecuro).
Day 1
Let’s start with Day 1: On the way from the hotel to the start in Sežana (Slovenia), it becomes clear that the first day is going to be very wet. It’s pouring down, and I quickly put on my full rain gear — rain jacket, long rain pants, and overshoes — at the start. After the starting gun, it’s a wild ride on gravel roads into the hinterland. For the first few meters, I’m still up front, but then a few riders pick up the pace to a level more suited for a short gravel race or MTB marathon, and I let the hotheads go. Experience shows that you either meet most of the fast starters later or they drop out within the first two days. At the beginning, I constantly experience navigation problems and almost miss every turn. I’m already doubting my navigation device when I finally realize that raindrops on the touchscreen have adjusted the map display resolution, so I’m navigating at a much too detailed zoom level, where turns only appear right at the moment of the turn. Once that’s corrected, navigation fortunately works fine.
The second challenge is the Tailfin Aeropack bag. Relatively soon, we hit technical sections or descents with very rough surfaces in the corners. I hadn’t had time to ride with the packed setup off-road before the race, and now it’s coming back to bite me. The center of gravity is significantly further back/up because of the bag, and this changes the bike’s handling drastically. At first, I feel like I have no control over the bike and curse my decision to use the Tailfin. Fortunately, after a few hours, I get completely used to it and feel perfectly comfortable on my bike again. I can already say that after the adjustment period, the Tailfin bags were the perfect choice for the entire race. They were really 100% waterproof and kept all my gear easily accessible. And they played very well with my sull-suspension setup.
In the first few hours, we cross from Slovenia into Croatia, and the route mainly goes through forested areas. This makes it a bit monotonous in the constant rain, though technical trail sections occasionally add some excitement. On top of the first longer climb I’m back in top 10 and start to feel comfortable with my performance although my body seems to be dealing with something. My heart rate is about 15-20 beats higher per minute than usual for the given power output. This worries me a bit and continues into the second day, but it normalizes as the event progresses and never really becomes a problem.
In the afternoon, after 123 km, I plan to restock supplies at the first mountain hut, but find out that the Croatian mountain hut listed as a supply point in the race manual only has drinks. No muesli or chocolate bars to be found. Luckily, I have plenty of gels with me, so it’s not a problem for now. Shortly after, I find myself in the small town of Lič with two other top-5 riders at a bakery.
Here, you can see that ultra cycling is mostly a food competition 😉 We commiserate with each other about our suffering due to the constant rain, thunderstorms, and hailstorms, sharing gallows humor as we take in calories.
In the evening, the weather improves a bit, and I can enjoy the view of the Croatian coastline in the beautiful sunset before night falls. The ride through the night is only interrupted by another attempt to get supplies at the mountain hut Dom Zavižan (at kilometer 241). Again, there’s only water and some coke. The organizing team members present explain the reason: the huts are not legally allowed to sell food in Croatia. Since there have been hefty fines in the past, they strictly adhere to this rule. With this new insight, I continue to ride through the adverse weather conditions of the first night (by now I’ve moved up to 3rd place). Given that camping out in these conditions is anything but appealing, the decision to ride through the first night is an easy one.
Day 2
After riding through the night, I arrive in the town of Gospić (at kilometer 326) just before 6 AM. In the meantime, the weather has improved significantly, and the rising sun warms my tired limbs. All the shops directly on the route are still closed, but I urgently need supplies. So, I decide to take a detour to a 24-hour gas station, about 2 km off the track.
While I’m freshening up (new chamois and sunscreen), @nils_laengner shows up with the Media Car and takes some pictures. It’s nice to see familiar faces after the long night and have some small talk. Additionally, the gas station restroom has the advantage of allowing me to remove the dirt before applying a new layer of sunscreen. Armed with freshly filled bottles (fruit juices and cola) and plenty of chocolate bars and pastries, I head back on the road. The weather is turning out beautifully and leads us through wonderfully blooming flower meadows. Only the muddy trails and deep puddles, which sometimes span the entire width of the road, remind us of the heavy rainfalls from the past 24 hours.
I manage to move further ahead and finally reach the first checkpoint in Mazin at kilometer 432 in the early afternoon. The leader, Manuel Truccolo, is also still at the checkpoint when I arrive, but he has already resupplied and is on his way again as I wash the mud off my bike with a garden hose and get served a portion of Pasta Napoli. I use the checkpoint’s Wi-Fi and my meal to book a hotel room in the next major city (Knin). This gives me a fixed goal for the rest of the day. As I get ready to continue, the third-placed Zbigniew Mossoczy arrives.
After the checkpoint, it’s back onto a jeep track with an extremely rocky surface after a short asphalt ride. I push hard but feel like I’m moving at a snail’s pace and get completely frustrated. I keep expecting Zbigniew to overtake me from behind at any moment. The midday heat during the climb adds to my demoralization.
But then, completely unexpectedly, I don’t see Zbigniew coming up from behind; instead, I catch up with Manuel ahead of me… and suddenly, I’m wide awake and fully in race mode. The climb gets increasingly challenging and eventually unrideable.
Newly motivated by taking the lead, I give it my all and soon create a significant gap from Manuel. The following descents and counter-climbs are really tough, with very rocky terrain alternating with deep muddy puddles and dirt paths. But the prospect of getting some sleep in Knin and gaining a bit more lead on my pursuers keeps me going. Just before 8 PM, I finally reach Knin (at kilometer 520), quickly check into the booked hotel right by the route, and get some extra calories from a bakery a few meters from the hotel. After a quick shower and some zinc ointment for the contact points with the saddle, I go to bed. Since I didn’t sleep at all the previous night, I generously set the alarm for 3 hours of sleep 😉 I assume that I won’t be in the lead anymore when I wake up, but I hope the recovery will pay off as the race progresses.
Day 3
The alarm rings, and just before 1 AM, I’m back on the bike, riding out of Knin. I’m somewhat surprised that, despite the early sleep break, I haven’t lost many places. Other riders have also stopped in Knin to spend the night. After Knin, the terrain is initially slightly uphill or undulating for a few kilometers out of town before a long, grueling climb begins. Even before the real mountain starts, I manage to overtake Mateusz Wiszniewski (sleeping by the roadside) and Manuel Truccolo (just getting up by the roadside) and find myself in second place behind Zbigniew Mossoczy. The upcoming mountain is no fun at night. The very rough surface with loose stones and occasional short pushing sections require full concentration in the dark. Again and again, in addition to the hub dynamo-powered lamp on my handlebars, I have to activate my helmet lamp to find a good track. At dawn, I reach the summit and can now also see the many warning signs along the way, which warn of life-threatening minefields off the paths. A sobering reminder of the Yugoslav Wars.
The descent goes well at first, but around 7 AM, I struggle so much with fatigue that I lie down on a rock slab by the roadside for a few minutes of power nap. Afterward, I feel really good and resume the chase after Zbigniew. The 700-meter climb to the border between Croatia and Bosnia-Herzegovina is paved, so I take the opportunity to call my wife at home, and the ascent passes quickly. That I am also maintaining a decent pace allows me to overtake Zbigniew shortly after the border crossing but before the summit. The chocolate the border guards give me as a welcome gift and moving back into first place puts me in high spirits, and I enjoy the long descent and the following flat section to Livno (at kilometer 646).
Upon arriving in Livno, I stop right at the entrance to a bakery, eat two pastries, replenish my food supply with more pastries, and, in addition to my filled bike bottles, pack an extra bottle of fruit juice, as the weather is great and the sun is blazing. While I am provisioning, Zbigniew also appears, makes a Formula 1-style pit stop, and rides off before me. However, I can overtake him on the next climb, as he seems to be having trouble with his feet and finds it difficult to pedal with higher intensity.
In the now following remote section in the mountains, I have a truly frightening encounter with a pack of shepherd dogs for the first time in the race. As I approach on the bike, I am quickly surrounded by at least eight impressively large dogs, barking and growling aggressively. Riding away on the bike is not an option, as the dogs are far too fast, and the terrain is relatively flat. I remember the recommended behavior (dismount and push the bike slowly). Although it’s a great effort, I get off the bike, and behold, I am still closely followed, but the aggression decreases, and I am no longer attacked. However, any attempt to get back on the bike and roll slowly changes the situation abruptly, so I push the bike a considerable distance until I apparently leave the herd’s territory, and the dogs lose interest in me.
The next opportunity for provisions is in Šuica (at kilometer 683). I use the bar directly on the route to replenish my drink supply with Coke. Unfortunately, there is nothing to eat, but since I still have some supplies, I ride on directly. All afternoon, I continue through remote mountain areas with beautiful views, glad that the weather remains consistently nice apart from a few isolated raindrops. The media car with @nils_laengner keeps popping by as a welcome distraction, taking photos. Everything is going well, and when I turn onto a paved road again shortly before the large Blidinjsko jezero mountain lake, I have managed to gain about 20 kilometers ahead of the second-placed Zbigniew.
However, my drink supplies are completely exhausted, and I have been rationing my drinking for some time. So, a large hotel with a restaurant on the ground floor appearing by the roadside comes in handy. I stop and go straight to the bar in the restaurant to order a few bottles of Coke and a mineral water. The staff looks at me somewhat puzzled since I don’t fit into the upscale ambiance of the place in my filthy clothes, but they still start to serve me quickly. The staff’s astonishment grows when the media team enters the restaurant behind me and starts taking pictures wordlessly. I would love to know what goes through the minds of those uninvolved in the race at such moments 😉
Freshly supplied, I continue and use the asphalt section to the lake to book a hotel with a 24-hour reception in the next larger city along the route (Mostar at kilometer 798) via booking.com. Just after completing the booking, disaster strikes, and a terrible downpour starts. At first, I only put on my rain jacket, but a few kilometers later, I get so cold in the rain that I also put on my long rain pants, neckerchief, and hat. The further kilometers to Mostar are then marked by bad weather, and I am glad when I reach the hotel late in the evening. The receptionist is just great. When I explain my situation to him, he immediately understands that I won’t be having breakfast and allows me to grab some muesli/milk, a few fruit juices, and yogurt to take to my room.
And soon after, I am lying in bed with a full stomach and freshly showered. I set the alarm so that I have a full sleep cycle (1.5 hours) and fall asleep immediately.
Day 4
I wake up a minute before the alarm goes off, and although it’s only around 1 AM, I take the opportunity to freshen up and apply sunscreen and chamois cream for the coming day. Then I throw on my now dirt-encrusted cycling clothes and hop on the bike in high spirits. The good mood is partly because the tracker shows me still in the lead despite my break. But also because the first few kilometers are in the valley, and even the upcoming climb starts on smooth asphalt. The climb is very steep, but since I’m more of a climber type, I see this as an advantage despite the effort. So, I cheerfully climb meter by meter back into the mountains.
Unfortunately, my good mood takes a hit when it starts raining heavily again just before dawn. Gradually, I put on all my layers of clothing, but still can’t prevent getting colder. Sometime in the early morning, a heavy fatigue sets in. Unfortunately, I’m somewhere in the middle of nowhere and can’t find a suitable spot to lie down in the dry. To clear my head, I eventually lie down under a tree by the roadside in the wet grass. I can’t sleep well, but it helps my brain reset. After about 20 minutes, I’m shivering all over and reluctantly get back on the bike. Eventually, I come through a small village (probably Nevesinje), where there are no food options on the route, but at least a canopy. So, I take the opportunity to put on my last dry, warm clothing item – my down jacket – under my rain jacket. This makes me a bit warmer, and I continue riding in the persistent rain until I arrive in Ulog (at kilometer 884) at around 9 AM in the morning. Ulog is a small village, but it’s listed in the race manual as a supply point, and there’s actually a small bar right on the route that also offers warm food.
I enter the bar and am greeted sympathetically but warmly by the owner and four other guests, despite my completely filthy and soaking wet outfit. I quickly order a hot tea and ask if I can also get something warm to eat. One of the guests translates my English into the local language, and after a short preparation time, I am served a portion of scrambled eggs with sausages and bread.
Normally, I wouldn’t take a break for a meal during the race, but in this case, I’m just glad to be in the dry and warm up a bit while eating. Whenever I fill my mouth with the cutlery and chew, I warm my hands on the hot tea cup. After eating, it’s hard to get going again. But I have to continue, and the other guests assure me that the weather will improve as the day progresses.
And they’re right. It feels like an eternity, but eventually, the sun comes out, and it stops raining. Before that happens, I take another 20-minute power nap by the roadside. The bad weather and cold sap my energy immensely. After a very long climb, a thrilling descent follows, where I meet the media crew again, who want to take photos of the leading riders. By now, the front group has rearranged itself, and closely behind me, Zbigniew and my French friend @stevenlehyaric are giving chase.
I still have some food supplies, but my water bottles are completely empty by the time I reach the bottom of the valley. Eventually, I spot a house that looks like a restaurant on the lower level. There’s even some music playing on the terrace speakers, but the doors are locked, and no one responds to my knocking and shouting. While circling the house looking for signs of life, I find a water tap at the back. Although I let the water run for a while, it doesn’t get cool. A bad sign, as it’s likely not tap water but possibly rainwater, meant for gardening. However, since I urgently need a refill, I fill my bottles anyway, trusting my Micropur Forte tablets to at least eliminate the worst bacterial contamination. So, 30 minutes later (the tablet’s working time), I have the opportunity to drink again.
And so I continue with fresh supplies. The weather is strange: the sun is shining, but I keep running into rain showers. I’m glad when the route takes a long climb into the forest, where the canopy shields me a bit from the rain. As I ride on, my heart almost stops when I see two hairy backsides about 10-15 meters ahead on the path. The loud stream next to the path must have drowned out my riding noise, so the otherwise very shy bears didn’t hear me coming. I stop immediately, but the bears now notice me and turn around. It’s a large mother with her cub. The mother immediately stands up, showing her impressive size. I don’t know what to do and stand frozen. Before I can do anything right or wrong, the bear luckily decides to retreat and disappears into the forest with her cub. I stand still for a while, fearing the bears might be waiting near the path for their freshly discovered meal 😉
After recovering from the shock, I continue my way. This encounter will definitely be one of the lasting memories of the race, best described as a mix of surprised horror and majestic joy.
It’s early evening at this point, and there are still about 50 kilometers to the checkpoint. I want to ride these entirely to take a proper sleep break at the checkpoint. However, the 50 kilometers are challenging, and after nightfall, there are extended mud sections where I frequently have to dismount. So, it takes much longer than expected, and during a descent, I get so tired that I take another 20-minute power nap, lying in my bivy sack. Surprisingly, I can easily forget my recent encounter with the wild forest inhabitants and fall asleep immediately. It’s very cold again, and the humidity is extremely high, so my rain jacket is covered with water droplets despite no rain. Just before the checkpoint, there’s finally an asphalt section, so the remaining kilometers roll smoothly over one last hill. It’s now already after midnight, but the checkpoint crew and the media car await me at the second and last checkpoint of the race (at kilometer 1037) in Brod.
It’s nice to have some small talk with familiar faces, and the freshly prepared pasta with tomato sauce revives my spirits. The checkpoints at the @transbalkanrace are spartan, as you can only get drinks here for the rest of the race (e.g., no chocolate bars or other food to take with you). But you’re always greeted with a portion of pasta and much human friendliness, and if needed, you can also wash your bike.
I take the opportunity to shower quickly and lie down for 1.5 hours of sleep on the only mattress available for riders. I’m curious how this works later in the race when multiple riders occupy the checkpoint at the same time. To avoid wearing my dirty cycling clothes to sleep, I wrap myself in a piece of curtain fabric provided and fall asleep immediately after setting the phone alarm. When the alarm goes off, I quickly get dressed to hit the road again. The crew has kindly placed my wet cycling shoes near an outdoor fireplace, so they are not completely dry but at least warm when I slip into them.
Just before getting back on the bike, @stevenlehyaric arrives at the checkpoint, and we exchange a few lighthearted remarks before he lies down and I head off again.
Day 5
So, what happens after I leave Checkpoint 2, wrapped in fresh sun and butt cream, just before dawn?
I ride the last few meters down into the valley on the asphalt road to Brod. Luckily, there is a 24-hour gas station with a wide selection, so I can stock up on supplies with plenty of chocolate bars (Snickers, Mars, Kinder Bueno) and Haribo gummy bears (cola bottles). I feel great again, and the undulating section on the highway to the Montenegrin border passes quickly. On both sides of the border, there is a wide highway. Only for the bridge over the river, between the border stations in the demilitarized zone, does neither Bosnia nor Montenegro seem to take responsibility. It is in an adventurous condition, and the roadway (if I remember correctly) is only covered with wooden planks despite the car traffic. After properly checking out of Bosnia and checking into Montenegro, the route climbs steeply into Durmitor National Park. The weather is excellent, the sweat is pouring down, and I am pleased with the very good road conditions, especially since my butt is now making itself unpleasantly felt.
The bad weather of the past few days, with lots of dirt and rain, has made the long days in the saddle even harder on my seat. As I ride uphill, I suddenly notice a short piece of a branch stuck on the side of my front tire. I assume it is just stuck to the tire and try to brush it off with my glove while riding. But the small branch is stubborn. So, I stop to take a closer look. And lo and behold, the branch has pierced the sidewall of the tire and is stuck in the tire.
Following an initial impulse, I want to pull it out immediately. But the thought of losing air, having to seal the hole with a tire plug, and pumping up the tire again stops me just in time. And since the tire has obviously been functioning in this state for hours, I decide to trust the sealant in the tire, trim the protruding end of the branch a bit, and just keep riding. And to give away the ending: the tire holds up flawlessly with this setup until the finish. I don’t have to pump up the tire at all during the entire race, neither front nor rear.
The next few hours, the route winds through the beautiful landscape of Durmitor Park. My butt, however, is increasingly making its discomfort known, and sitting is becoming increasingly difficult to endure as the path turns into a rocky track in places. So, I remember hearing on a podcast that long-distance cyclists have successfully alleviated their saddle sores with blister tape. And since I have a few of them in my luggage, I try my luck and apply them to the most affected areas. It works even better than expected, and while not pain-free, I am at least able to continue my ride with significantly reduced pain. The next few hours are scenically great, and the route winds up and down to the highest point of the entire route at over 1,900 meters.
I still have a good lead on my pursuers, but I feel increasingly lonely, as I haven’t had a single encounter with the media crew all day. They are a bit behind me with @stevenlehyaric and Zbigniew and miss me even at the highest point of the route as I plunge into the fast asphalt descent to Žabljak.
I reach Žabljak just before 3 PM, and according to the roadbook, it is “only” about 70 km to the next town, Kolašin. So, I decide I will definitely ride to Kolašin to take another sleep break there. But before continuing, I go shopping at the local supermarket and finally have the first ice cream of the race.
There have hardly been any opportunities to buy one so far, and when there are, it is either raining heavily, or it is too cold to enjoy ice cream. I also buy two packs of blister plasters at the pharmacy, as my saddle sores are increasing again, and I need more supplies. The problem is mainly that my first application has been somewhat amateurish, and the plasters are already coming loose at the edges, causing additional chafing. Since trying to remove them results in the realization that I am pulling off the affected skin along with them, I have to abandon the attempt and focus on spending the night in Kolašin, where I can remove and replace the plasters in the shower with warm water.
So, I set off again in the afternoon, feeling refreshed and with new supplies. The route leads back into the solitude of the hinterlands with constant ups and downs. The track becomes increasingly challenging, and the kilometers seem to drag on endlessly. The initial rough gravel road turns into a dual track and eventually into a dirt path, winding through the mountains with deep ruts and mud puddles. Eventually, night falls, and I become increasingly tired. But the fixed idea of riding to a hotel in Kolašin keeps driving me forward. I notice that I am becoming less efficient and slower, but my sleep-deprived brain is not clear enough to come up with alternative plans. And so, it comes to be that I am so tired at some point that I can’t keep my eyes open while riding and can’t continue on the technically demanding path. Unfortunately, there is no sheltered place to sleep nearby, so I have to lie down in the wet grass, protected only by my bivy bag from the cold wind, as continuing is out of the question. Just 20 minutes later, I wake up shivering and have to keep moving to avoid getting completely chilled.
The fixed idea of a hotel and a shower in Kolašin keeps driving me on, preventing me from considering the occasional good bivy spots along the way. The long descent into the town is another significant challenge, but my spirits lift as the town comes into sight. When I enter the hotel with a 24-hour reception that I have in mind into Google Maps at a junction off the track towards the town, it shows it is still over 6 km away. Although Kolašin is listed as “off route” in the race manual, the manual also states that “off route” options should be no more than 50 meters to 1 km from the track. So, I assume I am not at the correct turnoff to the town yet and continue following the race route. A few kilometers later, the route starts moving away from the town lights again and climbing back into the mountains. Another check at Google Maps shows the hotel is now about 10 km away. Despair sets in. But in my exhausted state, I still can’t think of alternatives. So, I turn around and head for the hotel.
Arriving there in the middle of the night, sometime between 1 and 2 AM, I have to ring the bell for a few minutes at the locked door until a friendly but visibly sleepy older lady opens it. I feel very sorry for disturbing her sleep and asking for a room, dirty and stinking at her counter. But she takes it in stride and even allows me to park my filthy bike at the reception. Our communication improves after we discover that we both speak German well after initial difficulties in English 😉
I am incredibly relieved when the battered blister plasters on my sore butt come off in the warm shower. A look at the tracker shows that the detour to the hotel adding around 20 additional kilometers and the slow ride before it has cost me quite a bit of my lead, but I figure that with 1.5 hours of sleep, I will be back on the route in time to start the last day most probably together with @stevenlehyaric. I set three alarms on my phone, lay my head on the soft pillow, and fall asleep immediately.
Day 6
I wake up without the alarm clock ringing. At first, I’m happy that I feel relatively good and didn’t even need 90 minutes of sleep. But the next moment, adrenaline rushes through every pore of my body… it’s bright in the room, and a glance at my phone tells me it’s already close to 6 AM. I’ve slept more than twice as long as I intended. How could this happen? I check the phone and see that I had set the times for the three alarms correctly, one minute apart. The only thing I can imagine in hindsight is that I forgot to activate them. Another glance at the tracking shows me that I have dropped from first to third place and also have to ride an additional 6 to 7 km to get back on route. What a disaster. On the other hand, getting more than 3 hours of sleep on the last night of a race is a real luxury, and the other two probably had much less rest. So, I don’t give up the race yet, quickly gather my things, and hop back on the bike with a whole collection of fresh blister plasters on my butt. Unfortunately, it’s still so early in the morning that there’s no food available at the hotel or any shops. No matter… I still have a few chocolate bars from the previous day and set off in pursuit of @stevenlehyaric and Zbigniew with those.
Luckily, I manage to turn my frustration over oversleeping into extra motivation, and I soon catch up to and overtake Zbigniew on the long climb back into the mountains. He’s in good spirits and even loudly cheers me on to catch @stevenlehyaric as well.
And so, I gradually reduce the 20 km lead of the first-place rider. But eventually, as it must, the higher intensity burns significantly more carbohydrates, and my food supply is running low. I already feel the first signs of a hunger bonk. The realization that I can no longer catch @stevenlehyaric like this brings me down quite a bit, as I have to slow down to make it through the long stretch to Nikšić (the next major town) by burning fat. Unlike yesterday, I’m not alone today because the media crew keeps appearing along the route to take photos.
As I half-starved, tingle through the endless grasslands around a huge wind farm, it becomes particularly tough again when I see the media crew sitting by the roadside with their stove, enjoying a delicious meal. The rules are merciless here (self-supported), and so I have to wish them a good appetite without being allowed to take anything myself. My drinks are also running out, but I manage to replenish my water supply from a stream, disinfecting it with Micropur. The bad mood only lasts for a short while as I remind myself how well my race has gone overall and that I can be more than satisfied with my performance and even a second place. So, I’m able to flip the switch in my head and enjoy the scenery and the prospect of finishing before nightfall.
Since the chase for first place has become obsolete and I also have a comfortable lead over third place again, a small lodge on the long descent to Nikšić comes just in time. I see two men eating in the garden, and a pictogram on a sign promises hospitality for guests. I hit the brakes and head into the garden to ask the two for food. I’m greeted with overwhelming hospitality and immediately invited to the table.
Only during the meal do I realize that the lodge is not even open yet, and I’m eating the two men’s afternoon snack, which they prepared while getting the lodge ready for the summer season. It’s very hard to say goodbye to this friendly setting, but I want to reach the finish line while the restaurants are still open, so I set off again, freshly strengthened.
Upon arriving in Nikšić, I make another stop at a shop where the media crew is also halting to stock up on chocolate bars, gummy bears, and drinks for the remaining nearly 70 km. And to eat my second and final ice cream during the race. Now, nothing can go wrong. The rest of the route is supposed to be mostly on asphalt and easy to ride, and so it is. Only the main road out of the city is mentally challenging because there’s a lot of traffic, and drivers here have no sense of cyclists‘ safety needs, overtaking incredibly closely.
But eventually, that is also done, and reaching the top of the last hill brings pure joy. The Bay of Rosin and the sea are bathed in the most beautiful evening sun, and I stop to take photos and fully enjoy the moment. I relish the remaining 800 meters of descent to the coast in a rush of speed and am happy at the finish to be warmly welcomed by the organizers, volunteers, media crew, and my friend @stevenlehyaric.
The missed chance of winning due to the involuntarily long sleep break has the undeniable advantage that I can truly enjoy the first moments at the finish without being completely exhausted and falling asleep immediately.
After the obligatory finisher photos, a small snack and a cool drink, I’m lucky enough to be able to check into my accommodation a day earlier than originally reserved. After a shower, I arm myself with a large pizza and head back to the finish area to give Zbigniew, the third-place finisher, a worthy reception along with @stevenlehyaric.
That’s it for the race itself. Many thanks to Bea, Luca, and the volunteers for this great event. An incredible challenge, but also a wonderful experience with memories that will last a lifetime. Respect to those who have made it through my lengthy report up to this point 🙂
Post Race Recovery
And what could be a better way to wrap up an ultra race than a few fond memories of days spent indulging without restraint in the best company at the finish?
I took part in the Silk Road Mountain Race last summer already. But even though it was definitely the most impressive and memorable adventure I tackled on the bike so far I somehow was not motivated to write a report. But whenever I see pictures from other events organized by Nelson Trees (like right now the Atlas Mountain Race), I flash back to the Silk Road and scroll through my pictures of Kyrgyzstan and reminisce about those intense days. And before the memories of these days become blurred, I would like to burn at least a few highlights into the digital memory of my blog. So here it is… some pictures of the beautiful country mixed with my experiences.
And for those who are not interested in pictures of sun-burned cyclists I want to start with some, taken from the race photographers, which show the enormous beauty of this rough and pristine landscape.
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In general, whenever the pictures in this report are not taken by other participants or by me they will be tagged with the artist behind the lens: Chris McClean (@chrismcclean), Daniel Usmanov (@danilusmanovphoto) and Nils Laengner (@nils_laengner).
After finishing the report I realized that it became quite lengthy. If you don’t want to spend your time reading everything, I can still recommend just swiping through the pictures. Kyrgyzstan is simply beautiful.
Preparation
Some facts first: the event is organized by Nelson Trees and takes participants for nearly 1.900km and 29.000m to climb through Kyrgyzstan. The majority of the race takes place in remote areas at high altitude between 2.000 and almost 4.000 meters and nutritional resupply, weather conditions and temperatures ranging from around -10 to +40 degrees Celsius bring additional complexity.
So it was clear for me that some altitude acclimatization and proper equipment are crucial. Luckily, in order to make the most of our limited family vacation days, I was able to convince my wife and children that Kyrgyzstan would be the ideal destination for our summer vacation. This meant I was able to use our tour perfectly to get in the mood and prepare for the event! A few pictures of our trip might inspire one or two future participants to do the same 🙂
Can you spot the bike in the bag?
Ready for take-off 🙂
National Museum Bishkek
Osh Bazaar in Bishkek
Test ride with my brand new ORBEA OIZ
Skazka Canyon
Hot springs at Altyn Arashan
Trip to Altyn Arashan Valley
Horse riding – fortunately the horse knows the path 😉
Barskoon Waterfalls
Old soviet military vehicles
Luxury lunch
Eagle hunting show
Trip to Son Kul
Yurt comfort
Yurt Camp at Son Kul Lake
Beach life & ice cream at Issyk Kul Lake
Getting ready for Yurt dinner
Kel Suu Lake
Two days before the race kicked-off I leave my family at the airport in Bishkek and travel to Karakol to show up for registration, get the bike and equipment finally prepared and most important…to get together with all the other crazy people that think such a race is the perfect way to spend your vacation. As I used the bike already during family vacation for training and do not want to take any risk I spend quite some time at the car wash and in the hotel to get it ready for the race in best condition possible (e.g. new Wolfpack tires, new chain, SON dynamo hub wheel + kLite light and charger, …).
Transfer from Bishkek to Karakol
Interview with Nelson and the media team
Lunch with the French speaking community
Some ice cream for dessert
Getting the bike in good shape
New Wolfpack tires, new tubeless setup
New chain, new batteries for SRAM trigger and powermeter
SON dynamo hub and Klite Bikepacker ULTRA V2 + Charger ready to go
Everything ready – last test ride before the start
Garmin inReach Mini for tracking and safety
Good for anyone who has a cargo bike
Brevet cards distribution at the briefing
Last instructions from Nelson
and briefing for the challenges ahead
Day 1 – Ghost Town Enilchek and Blizzard
Excitement is at its max when all riders meat at the start in Karakol. To get out of the town and away from the main road with heavy traffic safely, the local authorities accompany the riders in a neutralized start. But soon the track turns into a gravel road and everyone is on his or her own and the rules of the race become valid (e.g. no drafting). A flat but steady climb takes us from 1,600 to over 3,300 meters in altitude over more than 100km before we go back down to 2,500m to the ghost town Enilchek – where the workers of the now abandoned gold mine used to live. It’s located at the very east of Kyrgyzstan in the Chinese border zone. I arrive at the checkpoint at 5th position late afternoon. As the organizers didn’t expect such a fast first segment the checkpoint is not really ready yet.
Last photos before the start
Everyone awaiting the final go
Neutralized start
First resupply stop at a typical shop
False flat… long and steady climb
Enjoying the views
Impressive landscape
Enilchek – ghost town in Chinese border zone
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No food is prepared and also the stamp to document completion of the first checkpoint is not there yet. Fortunately at least a small shop sells some soft drinks and we head into the dawn to climb an old soviet road leading up to a pass above 3.800m. Weather conditions change quickly and besides getting freezing cold it first starts to rain before a blizzard covers the road with snow in the upper part of the mountain. I have to put on all my rain gear and my down jacket to even make the descent. And I still feal miserably cold. Some riders had to take shelter from the weather and by the time I reach the bottom of the mountain again I have moved up to 3rd place behind Justinas Leveika and Artis Žugs. But that is just temporary as I am taken over by Adrien Liechti and Sofiane Sehili again while taking a sleeping break in the early morning hours.
Day 2 – Beautiful views au gratin with hike-a-bike
After about an hour of sleep, the first rays of sunshine create a beautiful atmosphere and I crawl out of my bivvy bag again to start the second day.
First night at the Silk Road.
The weather is good again…
…and the set alarm and the first sun rays get me going again
Ice cream for breakfast in good company (Adrien)
After a few kilometers I spot Adrien Liechti at a small shop and we have some small talk over breakfast. A bit later the gorgeous Jukuu Valley starts and it’s going up again for some hours. The last part up to the Arabel Plateau is a real highlight in terms of landscape, but hard earned with a long, brutal hike-a-bike section.
Beautiful Jukuu Valley…
…with a nice gravel road…
…that leads us back into the mountains.
Short break to eat…
…and refill my bottles at the river…
…before the steep sections up to the pass start.
Artis Žugs enjoys the hike-a-bike…
…as much as I do.
But we are rewarded…
…with the beautiful views…
…on the Arabel Plateau
Some energy needed to face the brutal headwind
A strong headwind brings cold air and temperatures drop to 1°C while riding up to ~3.800m on the Arabel Plateau. The altitude already takes its toll but the headwind makes it really hard to stay motivated and push through.
But finally a long descent starts and I assume that I can push through until Naryn to get some proper sleep in a hotel. How wrong can you be. Instead, an endless series of river crossings begins, during which I not only get my feet and legs wet, but also gradually become more and more tired. And so I finally decide to sleep in the bivvy bag for another night. I’m just starting to set up my place to sleep next to the track when one of the media cars comes by and films me preparing my dinner and retreating to my accommodation. After two hours I have to continue my journey because I can no longer sleep shivering from the cold as the temperature has meanwhile dropped to -6°C.
Day 3 – From Naryn to CP2 at Kel Suu
Since the last two nights weren’t really relaxing, I’m very tired and it’s hard to really enjoy the track that winds up and down the valley to Naryn.
The road to Naryn goes up and down…
…through this impressive valley.
When I finally arrive in that medium-sized city around midday, I get a simple hotel room to catch up on some sleep and take this opportunity to take a shower. Before that, I treat myself to a real meal in a small restaurant while I congratulate my son Leo in detail on his birthday over the phone.
Happy to get some vitamines and real food…
…after two days of junk food only.
The stop in Naryn including lunch, search for hotel, shower and sleep takes nearly four hours and it’s already afternoon when I leave the city to go up into the high mountains again. My good mental state after a proper rest is further boosted by a strong tail wind that literally makes me sail.
Only the washboard road and the cold of the night bring me back to the here and now as I work my way up serpentine after serpentine to the border station that controls the entrance to the Chinese border zone. From there we continue through the night and I meet Seb Breuer, Justinas Leveika and Lukáš Klement as we continue up to Kel Suu. Justinas is currently leading the race and we only meet because there is a loop in the route that he just finishes while I start it. At Kel Suu the second checkpoint awaits us and Seb, Lukáš and I enjoy the prepared food, some hot tea and a proper nap in one of the heated Yurts.
Day 4 – Old Soviet Road and how to die of thirst at the Chinese border fence
I share a Yurt with Seb and we leave the camp just a few minutes apart from each other in the early morning close to dawn. He is faster than me going up the insane steep Old Soviet Road. The only things that remind us of the road on this section are the occasional jeep track traces and pieces of barbed wire lying around. So you have to be extremely careful not to miss one of them in the tall grass and get a flat tire or worse. I don’t want to know what happens if the barbed wire gets tangled somewhere between the front wheel and fork at full speed.
@nils_laengner CP2 – Yurt Camp Kel Suu
View from the Old Soviet Road…
…down to the high plateau of Kel Suu.
The sun brings energy…
…and I’m looking forward to the downhill section.
I can still enjoy the high-speed descent after the exertion of pushing up and can catch up with Seb once I’m back on the flat. We cover a few kilometers together and wander around aimlessly in the loose gravel and the river that runs through it.
Having a chat with Seb Breuer…
…finding our way through the stone desert.
I expect the route to continue like this, but in fact it is the last source of water for the next few hours and I neglect to refill my bottles. From now on it goes endlessly along the Chinese border fence in strong headwinds, very dry air and deep, fine gravel. This „flat“ section is approx. 80km long and rises imperceptibly from 3,200m to almost 3,600m. I’m becoming more and more dehydrated and at times I’m no longer sure whether I can still reach the next water source without outside help.
Endless loose gravel…
…along the Chinese border fence.
But finally I reach Torugart, a small collection of houses at a border crossing into China that is used by many trucks to transport goods. I find a trailer with food and something to drink. First, I’m the only guest. But as I gradually refill my empty energy stores with one plate after another and lots of Coke, more and more workers arrive to celebrate their end of work with a small meal and a round or two of vodka.
@danilusmanovphoto restaurant at Torugart
So happy to get some food and drinks…
…while chatting with the locals.
They are very interested in Germany and the event and with the help of translation apps we have a lively conversation and it becomes increasingly difficult to miss the next round of vodka. So with a heavy heart I leave the cheerful group and continue my journey – now on a wide tarmac road.
What a mistake. I should have found a bed and gotten some sleep instead of starting off tired into the sunset. But before I realize that, the media car driving past creates a bit of a distraction and takes a few pictures.
Some kilometers on tarmac road…
…but spoiled by the headwind from hell.
As soon as the sun goes down it gets miserably cold again. The temperature drops to -6°C and my eyes are slowly closing on the bike. The following hours are some of the most draining experiences of the entire race. I lie down in my bivvy to sleep, but my equipment is simply not suitable for a restful sleep in these temperatures.
My sleeping mat now has a hole and is always empty within minutes. And the strategy of choosing down pants instead of a sleeping bag clearly shows its downside. The cold inevitably creeps into the body through the feet. So after a short while I wake up shivering again and have to ride further to get warm again. The game repeats itself two more times during the night and when the sun rises I’ve lost a lot of time making stops and getting everything prepared for sleep, but I’m not at all feeling recovered.
Day 5 – Baetov to Kazarman
Fortunately the sun brings back some motivation and also temperatures rise stepwise again. I ride up to Mels Pass and take a few photos at an old Soviet monument.
Does anyone know the name of this monument?
Breathtaking landscape…
…in all directions…
… around this old Soviet monument.
Some riders passed me during the night when I tried to find sleep and I’m meanwhile riding at 6th position when Seb closes the gap to me again (he found a good place in a house for a longer rest) and we jointly approach the last downhill to Baetov. In the city I first replenish my supplies at the supermarket before taking a shower, lunch and a nap in a hotel during the afternoon. Well rested, I start my ride to Kazarman. It starts with never ending washboard sections before getting into the mountains again.
Lunch in Baetov
A though washboard road section…
…that brings us back into the mountains…
…close to dawn.
The road becomes increasingly adventurous and during the night a deep crater suddenly cuts through the road in a quick descent. Unfortunately I’m on the wrong side and the crater cuts me off. I try to brake hard and reduce speed, but in the end I slide into the crater pretty quickly and roll over.
The crater started in the middle of the road (and I choose the wrong side)
Luckily I can escape with minor bruises and a bloody nose. And the bike doesn’t suffer anything worse either. It just takes a while until I find my Wahoo navigation device again, which came loose from the handlebars when I fell. When I arrive in Kazarman it’s long after midnight and the doors to the small guest houses are all closed.
As if by a miracle I still find an ajar door to a property and can get a room for the next two hours. The young man who lets me in even speaks a few words of German because he works in Germany and is currently on home leave. Before I fall tired into bed, I even get some flatbread with jam and honey from the kitchen. Hospitality is really important here and I take the opportunity to inspect my nose and clean the wound.
The enthusiasm literally jumps off my face.
Day 6 – reaching CP3 at Son Kul via Modlo Ashuu
I have now fallen back to 10th position. But the approaching dawn bathes the valley in a beautiful light and I’m in a really good mood again. I put the chain under tension and in the following hours I can pass four riders again (Lukáš Klement, Josh Ibbett, James Mark Hayden and Sebastian Breuer). The nights are freezing cold but during the day it can get brutally hot as well. And this is one of the sections…
When I start into the day it’s around 0°C but temperature goes up to 37°C in the course of the day. The views are beautiful and I really enjoy them but at the same time it is impossible to hide from the sun in this barren landscape and I feel like a well-done steak on the grill.
Dawn and washboard road…what a great start into the day 🙂
The heat is on…
…but the diverse landscape…
…and the breathtaking views…
…distract from the efforts of the journey.
Before the long climb up to Son Kul starts (from 1,400m up to >3,300m) I resupply in a small shop that’s also the last commercial opportunity before checkpoint 3. While finishing my late lunch with the 3rd or 4th ice cream from the freezer also Seb and James arrive and do not miss that opportunity of a healthy snack as well 😉
The diversity of the landscape is impressive and as you climb the vegetation suddenly changes again. Large trees and many bushes line the gravel road along a river. But it is still hot and in order to really enjoy the chocolate I have bought, it is quickly returned from liquid to solid state in the cold stream while stopping to fill my bottles. As I work my way up the climb, bend by bend, I have the feeling that I have found the Stelvio Pass of Kyrgyzstan.
Back to the green zone
White chocolate put into the cold steam…
…while riding up the Stelvio Pass of Kyrgyzstan.
In Kyrgyzstan you can find trees even at high altitude.
Stelvio Pass?
When I arrive at the summit of the Modlo Ashuu Pass, I quickly take a photo in the evening sun and then roll a few meters down to checkpoint 3, which is located in a yurt camp at the beautiful Son Kul Lake at an altitude of around 3,000m. While eating some fish with potatoes also James and Seb arrive. We share a yurt that is heated to sauna temperature with an oven and before I fall asleep I enjoy the last shower of the race.
Modlo Ashuu Pass
Rolling down to Son Kul Lake…
…that is located at a high plateau at ~3,000m.
Sharing the yurt at CP3 with James Mark Hayden and Seb Breuer.
Happy faces at breakfast in the middle of the night 😉
Day 7 – Son Kul, Kegeti pass, hospital and mosque
I make another mistake in my sleep tactics and get up after less than two hours of sleep. Together with Seb and James we go up and down on trails and grass paths around the lake. I suddenly become extremely tired again and have to take a sleep break in my bivvy before daybreak. If only I had stayed longer in the comfortably warm yurt camp. Instead, I’m now lying in hoarfrost at minus 5 degrees on a meadow full of cow dung. When the sun rises, I continue my journey, but I’m still not really fit again. A short time later, Lukáš and Josh catch up with me. The route stretches for several kilometers along narrow donkey paths until it ends on a wide mining road.
What a silly place to sleep (just an hour away from the yurt camp)
Frozen grass from the moisture of the lake.
The weather gets rainy…
…when the mule track starts.
The next few kilometers are unspectacular. Lukáš and Josh are always somewhere nearby and we meet one last time while shopping at the entrance to the valley that will take us up to the Kegeti Pass.
The Kegeti Pass is already notorious from previous Silk Road Mountain Races. Not only because of its height of over 3,700m, but also because of the last few hundred meters of altitude, which can only be overcome by pushing and carrying since landslides completely buried the path. But before this section I first go gently up the mountain in the rain. In the pictures you can also see me before I enter the last hike-a-bike part of the climb.
Happy to tackle the climb with my ORBEA OIZ…
…instead of this bike that I spot in front of a shop.
A large landslide has blocked…
the path to Kegeti Pass.
Hike-a-bike at its finest.
In the upper section it gets really uncomfortable as hail sets in and an ice-cold wind blows over the summit. I put on everything I have and make sure I lose altitude again as quickly as possible.
Inhospitable conditions on the summit…
…with strong winds and hail.
The path is initially very rocky and technical, but then becomes noticeably easier and finally becomes a comfortable gravel path. I’m enjoying the flow of the descent and the rising temperatures to the fullest when the fun comes to an abrupt end in an outwardly sloping curve. I lose traction, slip over both wheels to the left and slide at high speed on the right side of my body over the stony ground. The sliding never ends and even as I’m doing it I realize that it’s going to really hurt. When I picked myself up again, I am happy that I didn’t break anything and that the bike is still ready for use. But the feeling of pain and the warm blood running over my skin on my shoulder, hip and elbow quickly make it clear to me that I can’t just keep riding. First I take off the shredded jacket and arm warmers and clean the dirt from the wounds on the nearby stream. In contrast to the abrasions on the hip and shoulder, the injury at the ellbow is not large, but it is uncomfortably deep. And despite the cold water, fresh blood constantly comes out of the wound. So I decide that the wound should be properly cleaned (maybe stiched) and cared for by a doctor.
Not big, but gaping and deep.
So I drive the next 600 meters of altitude further down the mountain until I see men on the side of the road in a small village and ask them for a doctor. As expected, there is no doctor here and the nearest professional care is in the hospital in the town of Tokmok, about 40-50km away. I ask the men to call me a taxi, but that would probably have to come from the city first. And so two of them offer to drive me straight into town in exchange for gas money. I gratefully accept. When they want to load my bike into the car, I make it clear to them that I will come back here later to continue the race and that the bike can stay here. And so it finds a place in the building next door to a mosque.
When I arrive at the hospital, a procedure begins that makes me sweat more than the entire route of the day. The wounds are cleaned intensively and thoroughly mechanically and with disinfectant. And I’m released with a bandage on my arm and a prescription for an antibiotic.
Since I’ve already mentally checked off the classification of the race at this point, I invite my rescuers to dinner in the city before they drive me back to the mosque.
I invite my two rescuers…
…to dinner together.
When we arrive back at the mosque, they explain to me that they don’t live here in the village, but that they live and pray in the mosque for a few days with other believers. And that I am cordially invited to spend the night in the mosque with them. And so it happens that around midnight I spread out my bivvy in the prayer room of the mosque to sleep here with 10 to 15 other men.
Day 8 – The race is on (again) – the final boss is calling
Even before sunrise, the place comes to life because the believers wash themselves for the morning prayer. I also freshen up and since I’m no longer in a hurry, I sit down for the morning prayer, which also earns me an invitation to have breakfast together.
Rich breakfast in the mosque
What a perfect start to the day. Refreshed, I set off and when, after a few kilometers, I stop at a small shop to stock up on drinks and food, I am surprised to see on the tracker that the break didn’t cost me that many places and I’m now on 9th position. Firstly because James Mark Hayden unfortunately had to give up the race due to an asthma attack on the Kegeti Pass, but also because I had a comfortable lead over the riders behind me. Aside from the pain of the fall, I don’t feel too bad. With Max Riese and Vlad Podofedov breathing down my neck in the meantime, my fighting spirit is awakening again and I’m back in full racing mode.
What Nelson affectionately calls the bonus climbs in the Race Manual doesn’t look that big in the rest of the elevation profile. But that’s only because they’re a little lower in relation to the final boss (Kok-Ayrik), which is over 3,800m high. And so the bonus climbs last the whole morning and I don’t start the final climb until late in the afternoon. Before that, I fill up my supplies again and enjoy two more ice creams.
Bonus climbs offer beautiful views again…
…but these have to be earned…
…with a lot of sweat in the heat of the day.
Happy to find some final ice cream 🙂
This is also the last option, as the valley that follows no longer offers any supply infrastructure, and it is clear to me that I will be on my own the next night. I’m only tackling this final test because the weather forecast is good. If it rained or blizzarded, I would otherwise be in big trouble with my rain gear shredded from the fall.
The Kok-Ayrik is truly a beast. From just under 1,300m it goes up again to over 3,800m. The first part slowly but steadily up a valley on a rough gravel road. But the last 1,200 meters of altitude have to be pushed almost entirely in an infernal hike-a-bike. The rocky path is either too steep or covered in landslides and so I spend the entire night, without a single break for sleep, working my way to the summit, little by little. I can’t check my lead over the riders behind me because there is no cell phone reception throughout the climb. And so I am overjoyed when I can see the summit at dawn and successfully complete this final test just in time for sunrise.
After hours and hours in the dark…
…the summit finally appears at dawn.
Only a few meters left to push…
… while the sunrise baths the surrounding mountains…
in mystical light.
And finally relief and happiness…
…at the summit of the Kok-Ayrik Pass.
I enjoy the summit to the fullest and look forward to the long descent down to Lake Issyk-Kul. The atmosphere at sunrise and the view are gigantic. But the joy of the bumpy descent is unfortunately marred by severe pain in the elbow.
Finally, there is the 2,200 altitude meter long descent…
…that leads down to Lake Issyk-Kul.
And so the relaxed finish really begins when I turn onto the flat tarmac road on the shore of Lake Issyk-Kul for the last 20 kilometers.
The finish is in a hotel complex in Cholpon-Ata, a seaside resort with a sandy beach. I’m incredibly exhausted after the sleepless night, but the rush of happiness, that I made it to the finish despite all the odds, is indescribable.
And what’s even better: I beat my dream time of 8 days by 30 minutes and can take home a strong top 10 placement.
These pictures don’t manage to show…
…how happy I am.
After all the exertion and 8 days in cycling clothes around the clock, I can hardly wait to change into civilian clothes after having a fresh shower. Luckily the podium finishers are there to cut me out of my bandage 😉
Luckily…
…there is help on hand…
…to prepare me for the shower 😉
Post Race Life
After taking a shower I go for breakfast with Nelson and some other riders. But as soon as the adrenaline of the finish wears off, leaden fatigue sets in. I find it difficult to even carry my luggage into my room. And as soon as I reach the bed, I immediately fall asleep. After a few hours of sleep, hunger drives me out of my room again. Now another highlight of these events begins. Everywhere on the site you will meet other participants or the event crew. It’s so great to talk to people who share common experiences. And so for the next few days I let myself drift from one shared meal to the next.
First dinner after the race with Max Riese
Chatting at the finish with Josh, Sofiane and Lukáš
Breakfast number two or three 😉
Enjoying Kyrgyz food after far too many sweets during the race
All ice-cream finished…
Can’t remember anymore how many plates were ordered
The holiday resort is the perfect place for this.
Holiday resort at the finish line
Enjoying the beach…
…in between the meals.
The only thing that worries me is my arm injury and so I take the opportunity to have the wound cleaned again in a hospital in the capital when a few participants go to the airport in Bishkek.
Luckily, halfway through the procedure, the doctor decides that it would probably be better to use local anesthesia…
A Kyrgyz prescription from the doctor…
…and what you can get for it at the pharmacy…
…to treat your wounds.
Actually the beautiful encounters and experiences at the finish far outweigh the negatives. But every trip comes to an end at some point, so I put my bike back in my bag and head home after 4 weeks in Kyrgyzstan.
It’s time to pack your stuff…
…including proof of participation…
…and fly home to family and business.
I take with me endless new impressions, beautiful encounters and new friends from a country that I would have had difficulty finding on the globe before planning the trip. Can I recommend the Silk Road Mountain Race? Absolutely – the location and the adventurous event are unique. Would I take part again myself? Perhaps. The demands on driving technique are not that high and the endless washboard sections got on my nerves at some point. However, I have learned quite some lessons on the topic of sleep strategy and sleeping equipment for such a long and remote race and it would be interesting to optimize it again in this regard to achieve a faster time. Never say never… maybe we’ll meet again in Kyrgyzstan sometime 😉
In this post I want to take you with me on the 1.173km long journey through the Atlas and Anti Atlas in Morocco based on the great photos taken by professional photographers Ariel Wojciechowski and Nils Laengner who accompanied the race. Thanks a lot Ariel and Nils for sharing the pictures with us! If you are more interested into the detailed route, altitude profile and cycling parameters you can have a look at my strava recording: https://www.strava.com/activities/7917523383
Before I give you a more detailed report about how the race went just enjoy the wonderful views of the unique landscape of the Moroccan rocky desert.
If you don’t like long text, then just skip my writings and watch the pictures. They are worth it 😉
Registration and Briefing
The day prior to the start was filled with final preparation of bike and luggage, meeting a lot of old and new friends from the ultra-cycling scene and filling the carb stores of my body to the max. With all those crazy guys around me I always feel like a badass even though I’m the serious business guy with the side parting 😉
Last instructions were given from Nelson Trees (Race Director) in the afternoon during the rider briefing before everyone tries to get as much sleep as possible in the night prior to the start.
Start
During the final minutes prior to the start, you can really feel how nervous everyone is but happy at the same time, that they made it to the starting line and the long-awaited race finally kicks off.
The first few kilometers are on flat tarmac road to get out of Marrakesh. And most of the participants ride in a big group following the local police car in this neutralized phase. That’s also the only part of the race where drafting is tolerated. Drafting is actually not allowed during the whole race as every rider should complete the route completely self-supported. Only outside help, that is available commercially to everyone, is allowed by the rules of the race. As soon as the flat part ends and the route winds up into the Atlas Mountains the field splits up and every rider fights on their own.
First Day
The fast guys hit the pedals very hard. Based on my body feeling, the watts on the display of my wahoo and the knowledge about my limited training in the last months, I try to ignore them and settle into my own pace. And so I finally arrive on the highest point of the race (Telouet pass) at over 2.500m of altitude in the late afternoon and can ride the very technical mule track that is following during day light that also contains some hike-a-bike sections. It’s the first time after my serious accident that I ride on a technical MTB downhill again and I’m more than relieved that I’m able to ride most of it without fear. It’s hot and the sun is very intense, so my skin and clothes get covered with a salty crust of sweat.
When I reach the first checkpoint after around 125km I’m somewhere around 10th position what makes me quite happy as I didn’t expect to be able to race that fast. Somewhere around the checkpoint first raindrops touch my body before the sunset. That’s not surprising as also the weather forecast showed a little bit of rain during the first night. But during the night the weather changes dramatically. It starts with stiff wind, then heavy rain adds and finally the temperatures drop to 5°C while thunderbolts lighten the dark. I continue my ride because I want to drive straight through the first night as I usually do during ultra-cycling races. At km 260 I enter a gas station already at 4th position to fill-up my bottles again and to buy some food. I’m astonished to see the first 3 riders sitting together eating bread and omelet not being in a hurry at all. After a brief chat with them I finally understand that the race is over for the moment because the heavy rain dramatically increased the water level of a close-by river to a level that we cannot cross it with our bikes anymore.
So, we make the best out of the situation by filling up our energy stores with some additional food, service our bikes and try to get some sleep on the floor of the shop while waiting for news that we can cross the river again.
Second Day
In the early morning hours Nelson (race director) gives green light to cross the river after sunrise again due to a decrease in water level. And after he crossed the river himself as well by feet. And so the race is back on again with 10-15 riders close to each other who meanwhile reached the gas station.
I have wet feet for the whole rest of the day as I cross the river in my water-proof shoes. And as you can imagine… if there is water in them once, it won’t go out anymore 😉
The rest of the day has it’s ups and downs. Some of the other riders overtake me after the river again and I find myself somewhere around 7th to 8th position. I continue with my even pace and in the course of the day I can overtake one by one again and even end up fighting for 3rd place with Philippe Vullioud after Justinas Leveika (1st) and Marin de Saint-Exupéry (2nd).
I can’t believe that I’m able to compete for podium again and I push really hard into the second night. Justinas has a solid lead but Marin, Philippe and I are quite close to each other. And so, our different sleep strategies lead to some back forth in overall ranking during the night.
Third Day
I’m even on 2nd position when I decide to stop for breakfast because I only stopped for two short naps in the night sleeping on the dusty ground right beside the racetrack.
After an omelet, some bread and a lot of coke for breakfast I start into the third day meanwhile back on 3rd position heading towards the second checkpoint of the race.
The sun is back again at full strength and a long stretch without any shadow is quite demanding but the beautiful views are more than compensating. Philippe comes from behind like a rocket and it’s clear for me that I would never be able to hold his speed when he passes me. I finally arrive at the 3rd checkpoint in a village at around 650km grouping together again with Marin and Philippe for lunch while Justinas has already left defending his lead after taking a short nap and cleaning his wounds caused by some crashes. Some of us opt for a quick shower and I also do so to improve hygienic situation especially at my butt again. Considering that the high temperatures with lots of sweat and dust start to take its toll and I feel some saddle sores already.
Leaving check point 2 again with full water bottles and replenished food stocks a long stretch without resupply is in front of us that we must tackle in the burning heat of the day without any shadow. It’s quite demanding and I even have to start rationing my water to be able to reach the next resupply.
In the late evening I reach a small town that comes just before the infamous old colonial road. I’m meanwhile back on second position directly in front of Marin chasing Philippe who meanwhile took the lead. Justinas unfortunately had a bad crash in one of the downhill sections and had to scratch from the race. I’m quite motivated on the one side but meanwhile also struggling severe saddle sores on the other side. So, I decide to take a shower again and therefore check-in to a small hotel, which is around 2km off the route, to be able to clean the wounds and apply fresh chamois crème. As I’m already there I also opt for a solid 2hours sleep in a comfortable bed before I start chasing my competitors again. As my French skills are quite limited and my Arabic is non-existent it’s quite hard to explain to the hotel owner that I want to leave at 1am in the morning again. But after some help of google translate he finally understands that he will have to get up again that time to let me and my bike out of the locked building. I would really like to listen to the thoughts of people in such situations when a dirty, bad smelling stranger on a bicycle enters their facilities in the mid of the night for a very short sleep and insists on continuing the ride only two to three hours later again paying the bill in advance😊
Fourth Day
After a refreshing sleep I feel much better on my bike again and start into the old colonial road chasing the guys in front of me in the dark. As some of them didn’t stop that night yet I was overtaken by some riders and can see myself on 5th or 6th position on the GPS tracking website. But some of the other guys are quite close and not moving anymore because they had to lay down for some sleep beside the route as well. They lay in their sleeping bags directly next to the track and I try not to turn my head into their direction to avoid waking them up with my headlamp 😉 I pass them one by one in the next hours and get back on 2nd position chasing Marin who is leading the race.
The old colonial “road” is in fact a really rough track with a lot of loose stones. In addition, some parts of the road have completely vanished due to erosion or landslides. At some places you even need to climb up and down steep walls. The pictures show the “road” at daylight. But I sometimes really struggle to find a good way to tackle these obstacles as I must do it in the dark night.
After the old colonial road, a relaxing section of tarmac follows, and the sunset wraps the surrounding mountain scenery in beautiful light. Perfect conditions for the last long day of the race 😊
And the day really feels long as a lot of climbing is in front of us, and the sun is back to full force. I try to reduce the gap to Marin in front, but he also does not seem to have any issues and can defend his lead sustainably. I’m worried for some time because Philippe’s dot left the track and is not moving forward anymore. But it later turns out that he is okay and had to scratch from the race because of technical issues with his tires he couldn’t fix. I’m really happy that my material endured the whole race without any issues. Only some punctures that were automatically closed by the tubeless sealant. Others had much more issues as you can see in these pictures. One rider even lost his bike during a flood tide caused by the heavy rain in the first night:
In the early evening we reach the last checkpoint at around km 1.000 of the route and fill up our stock again.
I feel very good and strong and in my mind the idea materializes that I still might be able to take the overall win 😉 The rest of the route looks not that demanding anymore on the altitude profile as it goes more down than up. And as per the route description, I assume that a lot of easy tarmac will be involved as well. I have aerobars attached to my bike and Marin doesn’t, so this should give me an advantage as well. With all this in mind I put everything I still have in the tank in the following hours to reduce the gap. But every time I check the tracker, I can see that Marin does the same as well…
And so the gap persists as we ride through the night and the last climbs of the race.
Everyone who knows Nelson also knows that there are always some final challenges in his track designs and that’s just how it is in Morocco as well. When I’m on an old mule track which also involves some hike-a-bike sections crossing dry river valleys, sleep deprivation hits me quite hard. I have the perception that I turn in circles and crossing the same dry river valley again and again. In addition, some persecution mania adds as well, and I have the fixed idea of being caught up by the riders behind me even though I always have a solid lead when checking the tracker. In a moment of clear thoughts, I decide to take a last power nap of 10 minutes to give my brain the chance for a proper reset. I’m close to some building when laying on the ground and as soon as I try to fall asleep a dog starts barking… but I’m too tired to get to another place and somehow still manage to sleep for a few minutes before jumping back on my bike for the last long decent towards the finish in Agadir.
There is only the fixed idea in my head anymore to finish this and get to the hotel in Agadir soon… and based on the altitude profile this should be very easy within the next two to three hours. But as said… who knows Nelson knows how these assumptions can be misleading 😉
I don’t have pictures of the last section showing the track by night, but these nice daylight pictures give at least an idea of what was still in front of me.
We have to cross a dirty agricultural area with a lot of sandy tracks that force me off the bike from time to time. I even crash, slipping away in the sand, and find myself laying on the ground like a bug on my bag still having my feet attached to the pedals. In these moments I feel a strong helplessness and a few tears of frustration and the one or the other loudly spoken swearword leave my mouth. The only things that still motivate me are the close finish and the feeling that everyone needs to undergo this and staying strong will help me to succeed.
When I finally arrive at Agadir, I am not 100% sure if I’m dreaming. After quite a long time in rural areas in the Mountains, riding into the city (which seems to be the Las Vegas of Morocco) is a surreal experience. A lot of blinking lights everywhere and multi-lane roads with quite some traffic have to be managed. But when one of the control cars appears with Chris, and Ariel starts to take photos of me tackling the last kilometers, I am reassured that reality still has me 😊
I arrive in the hotel, tired like hell but extremely satisfied and happy of my achievement at the same time.
In these last pictures you can see Marin (who finished first), myself (second) and Rodney (third) arriving at the finish.
Wrap-up
The next days are filled with sleeping, eating, chatting about the race with other participants, and finally the finisher party including the award ceremony.
Having a look at the pictures I think you can all imagine that it feels great to finish an Ultra-Cycling race.
Thanks a lot to Nelson, his family and all the volunteers for making such an event possible at such an exciting location. Everyone should go to Morocco once for cycling – just for touring or for a race. It’s really a fantastic landscape with a lot of friendly people. It’s demanding but fulfilling at the same time. And I think no picture shows this better than the one of female rider Nienke Oostra who suffered a Shermer’s neck but was still able to smile, enjoying the beauty of the country and continued the race by connecting her helmet with her bag pack – chapeau!
For all those who are only interested in hard facts (moving dots) – first things first. You will be able to follow my cap at the Atlas Mountain Race starting on Saturday Morning 9am (German time 10am) on maprogress: https://amr2022.maprogress.com/?bib=59
I will tackle the route of 1.173km with 23.174m of climbing with cap number 59.
The Atlas Mountain Race is a fixed route, unsupported, single-stage cycling race that starts in Marrakesh, crosses the Moroccan Atlas before taking riders through the Anti-Atlas and on to Agadir. The clock does not stop and there are no prizes. It follows gravel, single and double track and old colonial pistes that have long been forgotten and fallen into disrepair. There is very little tarmac. There is some walking, and at times there is great distances between resupply points.
The race is very special for me as my sportive year didn’t go as expected… I had a severe bicycle accident mid of June breaking my neck (actually 4 thoracic and 1 cervical vertebrae were broken) and had to undergo surgery to remove one spinal disc and to stiffen the cervical vertebra with a titanium plate and a few screws.
Modern medicine is an incredible blessing
Fortunately, the doctors did an amazing job and after 12 weeks of recovery I got green light from them that I can put normal strain on my neck again. I still had a starting place for AMR in my COVID-19 backlog of postponed events and didn’t have to think long about and booked the flights. I’m this time not at competitive fitness to fight for the podium but I didn’t want to miss the adventure, the great landscape and meeting the community of crazy folks 😊 Don’t get me wrong… I will still try to finish the course as fast as I can – but I will respect the current limits of my body and it would be a great achievement already to reach the finish line. During health recovery and ultra-cycling I definitely learned what Mike Hall meant when he said “nothing that’s worth anything is ever easy”.
Trying to slow down the physical decline as soon as I could sit up straight again
The time in Morocco before the start can be perfectly filled-up eating local specialties, enjoying the comfort of a hotel bed and acclimatizing to the dry heat of the climate before I will switch to a more essential lifestyle in the Moroccan mountains.
Thanks a lot, Nelson Trees (Race Director), for taking the effort to organize an event like this at such a great spot.
I will try to give some updates during the race on my social media channels depending on my current mood but even more important… Internet connection 😉
Viele von euch haben mitbekommen, dass die vergangenen Wochen bei mir nicht wie geplant verlaufen sind und mein Berufs- und Privatleben, aber auch meine weiteren sportlichen Ambitionen und Pläne für dieses Jahr, ziemlich durcheinandergewirbelt wurden. Im Familienurlaub in den Pfingstferien bin ich im Bikepark in Tschechien so unglücklich gestürzt, dass ich mir Frakturen an einem Halswirbel und vier Brustwirbeln zugezogen habe. Eine Operation und mehrere Wochen in hauptsächlich liegender Position später, kann ich rückblickend sagen, dass ich ganz schön Glück im Unglück hatte. Denn es hätte noch viel schlimmer kommen können und ich bin dankbar, dass die weitere Heilungsprognose positiv ist und es zu keinen Lähmungserscheinungen kam.
Lowlight 2022 – OP wegen Frakturen an 5 Wirbeln
Trotzdem zieht einen die Situation immer wieder ganz schön runter. Und so habe ich auch in alten Fotos geblättert, um positive Gedanken zu aktivieren. Und was soll ich sagen…es funktioniert 🙂
Dabei bin ich auch immer wieder beim Italy Divide kurz nach Ostern hängen geblieben und habe auch einige Fotos mit kurzen Untertiteln für meinen Blog versehen.
Kurz zusammengefasst handelt es sich dabei um ein self-supported Bikepacking Abenteuer, bei dem ca. 1.300km und 20.000 Höhenmeter auf einer Strecke von Pompeji (bei Neapel) bis nach Torbole (am nördlichen Gardasee) zu bewältigen sind. Die Strecke hält dabei von Asphaltabschnitten über Schotter- oder Kopfsteinpflasterpisten bis zu ausgewachsenen Mountainbiketrails alles bereit. Doch alles weitere in Bildern.
Vor dem Start
In Pompeji darf am Vorabend die klassische Pizzaparty mit den anderen Teilnehmern natürlich nicht fehlen.
Erst- und Wiederholungstäter tauschen sich zu Freud und Leid im Ultracycling aus.
Bestes Wetter vor dem Start…
…ein paar letzte Selfies…
…letzte Instruktionen von Giacomo – dem Veranstalter…
…und endlich geht es los!
Tag 1 – heiß, heißer am heißesten
Von Pompeji geht es die ersten Kilometer neutralisiert durch die Stadt.
Am Fuß des Vesuv zieht das Tempo dann deutlich an und einige Teilnehmer fahren mit einem Tempo an mir vorbei…
…als wäre das Rennen nur 100km lang.
Nach dem Vesuv hat sich das Feld schon sehr in die Länge gezogen und ich treffe nur noch vereinzelt auf andere Teilnehmer.
Unter anderem auf einen der Favoriten – Marin de Saint-Exupéry – der am vorletzten Tag leider wegen Knieproblemen aufgeben muss.
So geht es – immer wieder mit schönen Meerblicken, aber leider zum größten Teil auf Asphalt…
… der Abendsonne entgegen.
Tag 2– I’m singing in the rain
Die erste Nacht fahren soweit ich das überblicke alle Fahrer in der Top 5 einschließlich mir ohne Schlafpause durch. In der Nacht kann ich mich vor allem durch Ausreizen meines ORBEA Oiz Fullys in den langen und teils technischen Abfahrten an die Spitze des Feldes vorarbeiten und erreiche bei Regen in den frühen Morgenstunden Rom. Vom restlichen Tag gibt es keine weiteren Fotos, da am Nachmittag irgendwann das Wetter kippt und aus schwachem Regen irgendwann Starkregen wird, der gar kein Ende mehr nehmen will.
Unterkühlt und völlig durchnässt entschließe ich mich am frühen Abend – und mittlerweile wieder hinter Štěpán und Alex auf Platz 3 liegend – in irgendeinem Bergdorf nach einer Unterkunft zu fragen. Und so treffe ich in einem rudimentären Hostel auf Alex (der zu diesem Zeitpunkt auf Platz 2 ist) und schlafe dort für zwei Stunden, um mich und meine Ausrüstung aufzuwärmen und etwas zu trocknen. Irgendwann vor Mitternacht brechen Alex und ich dann „frisch erholt“ auf in die zweite Nacht.
Tag 3– auf und nieder immer wieder
Das Wetter ist im weiteren Verlauf der Nacht gnädig und von einzelnen Schauern abgesehen wird es zunehmend trocken. Die Morgensonne taucht die Landschaft kurz vor Siena in wunderschönes Licht.
Aufgrund der langen Schlafpause von Alex und mir hat sich das Klassement in der Nacht noch etwas verändert – sind 2 Stunden Schlaf in 2 Tagen wirklich lang? ;-). Štěpán Stránský hat sich an der Spitze deutlich abgesetzt. Marin de Saint-Exupéry ist auf Platz 2 vorgefahren und Alex und ich liegen nahe beieinander auf 3 und 4.
In Siena gönne ich mir erst einmal ein leckeres Frühstück, kümmere mich um Epidermispflege im Bereich der Sonneneinstrahlung bzw. Sattelkontaktpunkte und fülle auch meine Taschen mit allerlei hochkalorischem Nachschub – das Bild zeigt nur den ersten Gang 😉 Frisch gestärkt, kann ich mich kurz nach Siena sogar auf Platz 2 vorschieben.
Den restlichen Tag geht es – typisch Toskana – stetig auf und ab. Die Top 3 hat sich zu diesem Zeitpunkt ziemlich gefestigt. Štěpán Stránský und Marin de Saint-Exupéry liefern sich unangefochten ein Rennen an der Spitze und ich gönne mir etwas abgeschlagen erst einmal ein Eis in Florenz. Alex hat leider Probleme mit seinem Schalthebel und muss den Kampf um die vorderen Platzierungen erst einmal hintenanstellen.
Die Route führt in stetigem auf und ab entlang unzähliger Highlights der Toskana…
…und das Wetter zeigt sich von seiner besseren Seite.
Die heftigen Regenfälle der letzten Nacht machen das Vorankommen aber auf etlichen Teilen der Strecke zu einem echten Kampf gegen den Matsch des Todes, der alles befällt…Reifen, Antriebsstrang, Rahmen und auch die Schuhe. Und es passiert nicht nur einmal, dass ich im Schlick die Kontrolle verliere und auch der restliche Körper Bodenproben nimmt.
Tag 4- von himmelhoch jauchzend bis zu Tode betrübt
Die kommende Nacht wird eine echte Challenge und ich spiele mehrfach mit dem Gedanken den Bettel hinzuschmeißen. Vor allem als ich mitten in der Nacht an eine Flussquerung komme, bei der die Brücke fehlt und ich mir bei der Suche nach einem alternativen Weg durch die Matschwiese auch noch einen Ast in den Mantel ramme sinkt die Stimmung auf den Tiefpunkt.
Zum Glück finde ich nach großem Zeitverlust endlich einen Weg über eine Eisenbahnbrücke. Im Ziel erfahre ich, dass andere Fahrer einfach durch den hüfttiefen Fluss gewatet sind. Das habe ich mich aber alleine mitten in der Nacht bei starker Strömung, ohne die Tiefe einschätzen zu können, einfach nicht getraut.
Der Schlafmangel und die Kälte setzen mir zusätzlich zu. Die Stimmung wird aber schlagartig besser als ich in einem kleinen Dorf vor Bologna um 4:45Uhr morgens auf ein offenes Café mit frischem Gebäck und heißer Schokolade treffe. Und als ich feststelle, dass der Löffel in der heißen Schokolade senkrecht stehen bleibt, bestelle ich gleich noch eine zweite hinterher – cioccolata calda at its best 🙂
In Bologna angekommen hat sich Marin auf Platz 1 vorgearbeitet. Štěpán liegt auf Platz 2 und ich folge mit großem Abstand auf Platz 3. Die topfebene Poebene liegt vor mir und ich fokussiere mich auf „Schadensbegrenzung“, um nicht noch vom viertplatzierten Franzosen Steven Le Hyaric eingeholt zu werden.
In Bologna habe ich noch etwas Zeit, bis die Bikeshops öffnen, bei denen ich mich auf die Suche nach einem Ladegerät für meine SRAM AXS Akkus machen möchte. Die Zeit nutze ich, um das Bike, meine Beine/Schuhe und mein restliches Equipment in einem Carwash mit dem Dampfstrahler von seiner Schlamm-Patina zu befreien. Mit frisch geölter Kette und aufgefüllten Verpflegungsvorräten…
…starte ich frisch motiviert in die Poebene. Diese ist zwar fahrtechnisch überhaupt nicht anspruchsvoll. Aber mental unheimlich anstrengend, da es über fast 200 Kilometer fast nur eben dahin geht. Und das zum größten Teil an diversen Kanälen und Flüssen entlang auf parallel geführten Dämmen, die weder Schutz vor Wind noch Schatten bieten.
Da ist das Ostello dei Concari ein echtes Highlight auf der Strecke. Der Besitzer Nicola Stabili ist ein großer Fan des Rennens und empfängt alle Fahrer mit einer einmaligen Herzlichkeit und einer gut gefüllten Eistruhe.
In der Zwischenzeit habe ich erfahren, dass Marin – in Führung liegend – das Rennen wegen starker Knieschmerzen leider aufgeben musste. Und auch Štěpán Stránský kann sein hohes Tempo nicht mehr uneingeschränkt durchhalten. Und so passiert das, was ich am wenigsten erwartet hätte. Ich kann in der Poebene den Abstand auf Platz 1 deutlich reduzieren und den Gashahn nochmal richtig aufdrehen.
Und so erreiche ich Verona auf Platz 2 liegend nur etwa 30 Minuten hinter Štěpán. Die Konkurrenz in greifbarer Nähe, mache ich mir einen genauen Plan, was ich alles noch an Verpflegung bis ins Ziel für die letzte Nacht benötigen werde und in Verona angekommen…
…plündere ich im Expresstempo ein Bistro. Diverse Wasserflachen, Panini und Schokoriegel schwerer geht es in die letzte Nacht.
Tag 5 – Endspurt und Finish
Gefühlt ist es gar nicht mehr so weit ins Ziel. Aber ca. 4.000hm und die zwei längsten Steigungen mit Gipfeln des Monte Baldo Massivs bis auf knapp unter 2.000m liegen noch vor mir. Ich fahre mit allem was die müden Knochen noch hergeben in den Anstieg hinter Verona. Und das unglaubliche passiert…
…ich kann mitten in der Nacht zu Štěpán an die Spitze aufschließen. Dieser gibt sich nicht kampflos geschlagen. Und so gibt es noch einige Führungswechsel, bevor ich ihn kurz vor dem Rifugio Monte Tomba distanzieren kann. Die Temperaturen sind mittlerweile auf den Gefrierpunkt abgesunken und eisiges Reif zieht sich über die Bergwiesen.
Um in den Abfahrten im Fahrtwind nicht zu erfrieren opfere ich meinen Rettungssack und schneide Löcher für Arme und Kopf hinein. So überstehe ich die vorletzte Abfahrt. Als das Adrenalin der Verfolgungsjagd mit Štěpán nachlässt und der Puls in der Abfahrt sinkt, macht sich nochmals bleierne Müdigkeit breit…
und ich lege nochmal zwei kurze Powernaps von 5 und 10 Minuten direkt am Wegesrand ein. Diese eingerechnet komme ich im gesamten Rennen auf ca. 4 Stunden Schlaf.
Das Ziel vor Augen fahre ich im Morgengrauen in den letzten langen Anstieg.
Es ist zwar noch sehr frisch, aber die ersten Sonnenstrahlen tauchen die Berglandschaft wieder in atmosphärisches Licht. Die Übergänge zwischen Tag und Nacht sind im Ultracycling meist die beeindruckendsten und zaubern mir regelmäßig eine Gänsehaut auf den Pelz.
Irgendwann ist auch der letzte Gipfel geschafft und das Online-Live-Tracking zeigt mir, dass die Verfolger – Štěpán eingeschlossen – alle nochmals längere Pausen einlegen mussten. Und so kann ich die letzte Abfahrt ins Ziel hinunter an den Gardasee nach Torbole ohne jedes Risiko und Zeitdruck absolvieren – von Genuss kann zu dieser Zeit nicht mehr wirklich gesprochen werden.
Im Ziel angekommen genieße ich die Endorphin-Dusche. Und feiere mein Finish gemeinsam mit dem Veranstalter Giacomo Bianchi und seiner Supportcrew.
Doch irgendwann lässt auch die beste Endorphinausschüttung nach und so gebe ich mich meiner Müdigkeit hin und verbringe die nächsten 2 Stunden auf dem Plattenboden inmitten der Touristen im Zielbereich – schlafend neben meinem Bike 🙂
Recovery – all you can eat
Zum Glück kann ich im Hotel schon um die Mittagszeit einchecken und nach einer ausgiebigen Dusche startet meine Lieblingsdisziplin im Ultracycling Duathlon…
…und dafür gibt es eigentlich keinen besseren Ort als Italien mit Pizza…
…Eis…
und jeder Menge Pasta.
Das Beste ist aber das get together mit den anderen Finishern, die im Laufe der nächsten Stunden und Tage eintrudeln.
Jeder hat viel zu erzählen und das Abenteuer auf seine ganz individuelle Weise erlebt.
Und so endet für mich das Italy Divide in toller Gemeinschaft und um einige Tiramisu schwerer. Vielen Dank an Giacomo und seine Crew für das tolle Event und ihr Engagement!!
Am Samstagfrüh ist es so weit. Ich stehe zum zweiten Mal mit dem MTB am Start des Italy Divide self-supported Bikepacking Rennens. Die Strecke führt mich dabei über 1.250km und 22.000Höhenmeter von Pompei bei Neapel nach Torbole an den nördlichen Gardasee.
Obwohl eine Wiederholung, ist die Teilnahme dieses Jahr aus mehreren Gründen etwas ganz Besonderes für mich:
Meine Familie begleitet mich dieses Jahr zum Start und wir verbringen die Tage zuvor mit kulinarischen Highlights und Sightseeing in Neapel und Pompei
Das Rennen startet dieses Jahr wieder regulär Ende April, nachdem letztes Jahr pandemiebedingt der Start in den Juli verschoben werden musste. D.h. man erlebt die Landschaft (z.B. in der Toskana) in grüner Frühlingspracht und bei weitem nicht so heiß. Dafür kann es unterwegs auch Kälte- und sogar Schneeeinbrüche geben. Vor allem, wenn es gegen Ende nochmals hoch hinaus geht.
Es ist das erste Rennen nach meinem schweren Bandscheibenvorfall (inkl. hochgradiger Spinalkanalstenose) im unteren Rücken im vergangenen Sommer. Dass ich ohne Operation überhaupt wieder so ein Event bestreiten kann, ist sicher zu nicht unerheblichem Teil den magischen Händen meines top Physio/Osteo Marco von Frankenberg zu verdanken (https://physio-moeglingen.de/). Danke!!
Dieses Jahr sollen über 300 Starter gemeldet sein. Und so freue ich mich besonders auf ein Treffen mit vielen alten und neuen Bekannten aus der Ultra Cycling-Szene.
Gestartet wird am Samstag um 11:30Uhr auf Meereshöhe. Nach neutralisierter Phase aus der Stadt hinaus, gibt es gleich ein paar knackige Höhenmeter auf den über 1000m hohen Vesuv zu bewältigen. Hier wird sich das Feld erstmals auseinanderziehen und die Socken und Schuhe werden auf einer Laufpassage mit feinem Lavasand gefüllt. Zur Einstimmung sind wir als Familie schon einmal zum Krater gewandert 😉
Danach folgen mit Rom, Siena, Florenz, Bologna und Verona weitere touristische Highlights, um nur ein paar ausgewählte zu nennen.
Wenn ihr mich bei dieser Fahrt wieder im Livetracking verfolgen möchtet, so könnt ihr dies auf der Trackleaders Website tun:
Das ein oder andere Foto von der Strecke werde ich auch auf Instagram und Facebook posten und freue mich natürlich auch dort über motivierende Kommentare 😊
In meinem vorherigen Blogbeitrag habe ich euch schon kurz ein paar Eckdaten und Infos zur Vorbereitung des Italy Divides serviert. In der Zwischenzeit bin ich seit über einem Monat im Ziel angekommen und werfe einen Blick zurück auf schöne, spannende, aber auch extrem herausfordernde Tage. Der Kurs, das Wetter, die Verpflegungslage und die Konkurrenz haben mir alles abverlangt. Und es hat einige Tage Regeneration gebraucht, bis ich wieder in alter Frische auf dem Rad gesessen habe.
Zurückgelegte Distanz: 1.355km – ja, das ist mehr als vom Veranstalter veranschlagt (da muss sich wohl jemand mal verfahren haben 😉)
Höhenmeter: 21.868 – die sich in manchen Abschnitten der Strecke stark „verdichten“, da lange Flachpassagen wie die über 200km lange Poebene mit nicht einmal 300 Höhenmetern kompensiert werden müssen.
Energiebedarf: 32.870 Kilokalorien – das entspricht 65 Big Macs der Franchisekette mit den goldenen Bögen
Gesamtzeit: 3d22h41m
Standzeit: 21h31m (enthält Schlafzeiten, aber auch alle anderen Zeiten, an denen sich das Rad nicht bewegt wie Ampel-/Verpflegungs-/Technikstopps)
Zeit in Bewegung: 3d00h57m
Schlafzeit: 4h30min (verteilt auf ein paar kürzere 20-30min Naps und einer längeren 40min- und 2h Schlafpause)
Platzierung: 2. Gesamtplatz
Temperatur: ~10° – 40°C
Soweit zu den nackten Zahlen. Doch wie fühlt sich das an? Was passiert in fast vier Tagen Reisens mit leichtem Gepäck, nur angetrieben von unzähligen Kalorien, die vom eigenen Organismus in kinetische Energie der Mensch-/Fahrradeinheit verwandelt werden?
Die Gefühlsfrage ist leicht beantwortet: von himmelhochjauchzend bis zu Tode betrübt ist alles dabei. Doch eigentlich wollte ich euch auch noch wie gewohnt einen sehr viel ausführlicheren Einblick in mein Abenteuer Italy Divide 2021 geben. Aber irgendwie fehlt dieses Mal der innere Antrieb dies alles in Textform oder in einen ausführlichen YouTube Monolog zu fassen. Deshalb gibt es an dieser Stelle nur ein paar kommentierte Bilder meiner Reise. Da ich mich aber gerne über meine Erlebnisse unterhalte, könnte ich mir gut vorstellen das Ganze in einem PodCast zu verarbeiten. Wenn eine*r von euch also Lust hat mit mir dazu ins Gespräch zu kommen, dann meldet euch doch und wir unterhalten uns locker im Interviewmodus. Entweder – falls vorhanden – mit Veröffentlichung in eurem PodCast oder auf meinem YouTube Channel.
Hier schon einmal die Diashow – viel Spaß beim durch-swipen 😉
Vortag – die Vorfreude steigt
Registrierung am Nachmittag
Giacomo / Jack – der Organisator – bei der Registrierung
Pizzaparty am Vorabend (Deutsch-/Österreichischer Tisch in Italien)
Briefing durch Giacomo und englische Übersetzung der Key Messages 🙂
Renntag 1 – Zwischen Pompei und Rom
Gleich geht es los… möglichst lange im Schatten vor der Sonne verstecken
Smalltalk vor dem Start mit Matthias Fischer und Croissants mit Pistaziencremefüllung
Das Starterfeld formiert sich – gleich geht es los
Neutralisierte Phase durch Pompei – lockeres Einrollen in der Gruppe
Erster langer Anstieg auf den Vesuv – zum Glück auch ein paar Meter im Schatten der Bäume
Nach knöchelhohem Waten durch Lavasand am Vesuv erst einmal etwas Pediküre (photo credits: Nicola Marchiori)
Wenige Stunden im Rennen bereits eine sehr staubige Angelegenheit
In der Zwischenzeit auf Platz 1 vorgefahren strahlt der Bub 😉 (photo credits: Nicola Marchiori)
Am Meer angekommen geht es einige Kilometer auf der Küstenstraße dahin
Kurzer Verpflegungsstopp an der Uferpromenade
Schwarzes Ultracycling Gold (Coke) serviert mit italienischem Gebäck
Irgendwo hier in der Ecke muss ich auch beim Race Across Italy in der Nacht vorbeigekommen sein. Die Ortsnamen auf den Schildern kommen mir mehr sehr bekannt vor 😉
Wunderbare Aussicht aufs Meer
Sonnenuntergang – die Übergänge zwischen Tag und Nacht sind immer ein atmosphärisches Highlight auf der Langstrecke
Trails in der Nacht – endlich kühlt es ab (photo credits: Nicola Marchiori)
Pizza to go gegen Mitternacht
Renntag 2 – ab in die Toskana
In der Nacht wechseln sich Manuel Truccolo, Mattia de Marchi und ich an der Spitze des Feldes ab. Während ich nach Sonnenaufgang meinem Bike…
…und diversen Hautstellen etwas Pflege zukommen lasse…
…ziehen beide wieder an mir vorbei und ich werde Manuel erst am Nachmittag wieder sehen.
So genieße ich erst einmal die Fahrt durch Rom bevor die Touristen erwachen.
Sightseeing Rom
Alte Steine wohin das Auge blickt
Nach ein paar flachen Kilometern geht es in die Hügel der Toskana
mit wunderschönen Ausblicken, die man sich aber auch mit etlichen Höhenmetern verdient
Bei soviel Natur, wird man schon einmal von einem Verkehrsstau der besonderen Art ausgebremst, bevor es in die zweite Nacht geht.
Renntag 3 – ohne Treibstoff läuft der Motor nur im Standgas
In der zweiten Nacht überhole ich Mattia wieder, da er eine mehrstündige Schlafpause im Hotel einlegt und ich mich mit kurzen Naps begnüge. Am frühen Morgen treffen wir uns kurz beim Bäcker in Siena am berühmten Piazza del Campo
Ich bin gerade mit Essen fassen fertig, als er einläuft, um sich mit Kaffee und Croissants zu versorgen
Ich kann danach die Führung noch für ein oder zwei Stunden behaupten, aber dann rächt sich meine lange Nachtfahrt, in der ich für längere Zeit kein Essen und Trinken auftreiben konnte und ich erleide einen ziemlichen Leistungseinbruch.
Danach ist erst einmal langsam machen angesagt und Verpflegung jeglicher Form kommt zum Wiederauffüllen der Speicher gerade recht.
Die Sonne brennt auch an diesem Tag wieder erbarmungslos, aber die wunderbare Landschaft entschädigt für vieles und mit ein paar kurzen Naps und kontinuierlicher Nahrungsaufnahme kann ich mich wieder aus meinem Leistungstief herausarbeiten.
In Florenz angekommen belohne ich mich mit Aussicht auf die Stadt dann erst einmal…
…mit leckerem italienischem Eis.
Nach Florenz geht es in nicht enden wollendem auf und ab auch über ein paar größere Berge und der Belag ist von den sehr technischen Trails abgesehen auch auf „Schotterwegen“ sehr anspruchsvoll.
So komme ich deutlich langsamer vorwärts als gedacht…
…und muss vor Bologna noch eine Schlafpause einlegen. Dabei lasse ich das Licht am Helm ein paar Meter entfernt von mir brennen, um die Insektenplage zumindest etwas von mir abzulenken.
Renntag 4 – die Poebene macht ihrem Namen alle Ehre
Kurz vor der Dämmerung erreiche ich Bologna und muss mich mit dem Gedanken anfreunden…
…dass ich das ca. 200km lange Flachstück durch die Poebene wohl komplett in der Hitze des Tages absolvieren darf.
Da nutze ich vorsichtshalber noch schnell die städtische Infrastruktur für ein hochkalorisches Frühstück…
…bevor es wieder ins ländliche geht. Ein paar Stücke Pizza esse ich direkt vor Ort und zwei Stück Calzone landen in den Food Pouches am Lenker als Snack auf dem Rad.
Die darauf folgende Fahrt durch die Poebene gehört sicher zu den mental anspruchsvolleren Abschnitten, die ich bisher auf dem Rad erlebt habe.
Temperaturen zwischen 35° und 40°C, kaum Schatten und vom Höhenprofil an Langeweile kaum zu überbieten. Dazu noch Motivationsprobleme Zug auf der Kette zu halten, da der Führende Mattia in der Zwischenzeit einen großen Vorsprung hat und ich mich wiederum vom drittplatzierten Manuel deutlich absetzen konnte.
So halte ich mich unterwegs mit Magnumverkostung aus der Lagnesetruhe…
…bzw. Eis vom freundlichen Italiener bei Laune.
Den Beinen sieht man in der Zwischenzeit auch an, dass es vor allem auf der ersten Hälfte der Strecke regelmäßig zugewachsene Trails zu passieren galt.
Am frühen Abend erreiche ich endlich Verona…
…das auch das Ende der langen Flachetappe markiert.
Von hier aus geht es in den letzten Streckenabschnitt, der nochmals ein Feuerwerk an Höhenmetern zündet.
Zu meinem Verdruss habe ich in der Zwischenzeit Sitzprobleme in einer Intensität, wie ich sie bisher noch nie auf einer Langstrecke entwickelt habe….
Und selbst das Panorama der nahenden Berge in der Abendsonne kann mich nur bedingt ablenken. Da die Sitzprobleme im Verlauf der Nacht immer schlimmer werden, lege ich die letzten ca. 4.000 Höhenmeter fast ausschließlich im Wiegetritt zurück.
Renntag 5 – final Countdown
Eigentlich will ich die letzte Nacht vollends durchfahren. Aber in der Abfahrt hinunter ins Adigetal nach Avio kann ich die Augen nicht mehr offen halten und der Gleichgewichtssinn lässt spürbar nach. Also gibt es an Ort und Stelle einen letzten 20minütigen Powernap auf dem Grünstreifen.
So kann ich „erholt“ in den letzten langen Anstieg im Monte Baldo Massiv starten. Die letzten Kilometer zum Gardasee…
…zeigen sich am frühen Morgen von ihrer besten Seite.
In der letzten Abfahrt will die Milch im Reifen das Loch, das ich mir nachts eingefahren habe, auch mit wiederholtem Nachpumpen nicht mehr schließen. Aber mit einem Tireplug bekomme ich auch das in den Griff.
Da ich überhaupt nicht mehr sitzen kann, ziehen sich die letzten Kilometer noch wie Kaugummi. Aber ich kann die Nähe des Lago schon spüren und die Euphorie des nahenden Finish macht sich breit.
Als ich oberhalb von Torbole das erste Mal den See erblicke, halte ich noch kurz für ein paar Schnappschüsse….
…mit und ohne Fahrrad. Mein Equipment hat sich wieder top bewährt. Vielen Dank an dieser Stelle auch an meine Unterstützer Witttraining, ORBEA, Wolfpack, Power2Max, Apidura, Sponser, KASK Helmets und Royal Bike Wear!
Im Ziel in Torbole angekommen empfängt Giacomo jeden Finisher…
…und dreckig aber glücklich, darf ich auf dem Finisherthron Platz nehmen.
Ich freue mich riesig über meinen zweiten Platz und als Lohn der Anstrengung gibt es noch das Italy Divide Finishershirt obendrauf. Herzlichen Glückwunsch an dieser Stelle auch an Mattia de Marchi – ein ehemaliger Rennradprofi – der sich mit einer bärenstarken Leistung verdient den ersten Platz gesichert hat.
2 Tage Finisherparty
Im Ziel angekommen, checke ich erst einmal in einem nahe gelegenen Hotel ein und gönne mir eine Dusche.
Danach startet das Recoveryprogramm mit einem leckeren Frühstück.
Nach einem Mittagschlaf am See und etlichen Kugeln Eis, zieht es mich am Abend nochmal zu einem „kleinen Abendessen“…
…an dessen Ende mich die freundliche Dame an der Kasse fragt…
…ob noch eine zweite Person dazugestoßen sei 😉
Am nächsten Tag unterbreche ich meine Nahrungsaufnahme…
…um den ein oder anderen Finisher in Empfang zu nehmen…
…diesen zu gratulieren….
…und gemeinsam das Erlebte…
…in lockerer Runde zu verarbeiten…
…und die Energiespeicher weiter aufzufüllen. Ein perfekter Abschluss für dieses abenteuerliche Event!
Morgen früh 10:30Uhr ist es wieder soweit. Ich stehe erneut in Italien an der Startlinie eines Langstreckenevents. Dieses Mal allerdings nicht mit dem Rennrad, sondern das erste Mal seit letztem Jahr wieder auf Stollenreifen auf meinem geliebten Orbea Oiz. Pandemiebedingt wurde der Start des Italy Divide aus dem Frühjahr in den Hochsommer verschoben. Das war bzgl. Pandemieeinschränkungen (nächtliche Ausgangssperren / Reiseeinschränkungen usw.) mit Sicherheit die einzig sinnvolle Option. Für mich und alle anderen Teilnehmer bedeutet es aber, dass das Rennen im wahrsten Sinne des Wortes eine heiße Sache wird. Startort ist Pompei, von wo die Strecke nach kurzem Einrollen nach Neapel gleich über den ca. 1.000hm hohen Vesuv führt. Danach geht es weiter über Reggia di Caserta und Rom in die malerische Toskana zur Strade Bianche, Siena, Florenz und Bologna. Es folgen etliche flache Kilometer durch die Poebene bis nach Verona von wo zu guter Letzt in den Alpenausläufern noch ein Höhenmeterfeuerwerk zum Zielort Torbole am nördlichen Gardasee gezündet wird. Dabei werden etwas mehr als 1.300km garniert mit ca. 22.000 Höhenmetern unter den Rädern hindurchrollen.
Für alle, die mir beim Schwitzen zuschauen möchten, werde ich sicher wieder das ein oder andere Update auf Instagram bzw. Facebook bringen. Evtl. gibt es auch wieder Videos auf meinem YouTube Kanal. Je nach Lust/Laune und Akkustand unterwegs.
Das Fahrrad vor Ort vorbereitet und mit dem Flieger angereist bin ich bereits am gestrigen Donnerstag. Um die S-Bahn um 05:10Uhr in der frühe zu erwischen, war leider eine kurze Nacht angesagt. Perfekte Einstimmung auf die kurzen Nächte während dem Race 😉
So konnte ich mich am heutigen Freitag bei einer lockeren Vorbelastung schon etwas an den italienischen Verkehr und die hohen Temperaturen gewöhnen und habe auch den ein oder anderen Teilnehmer kennen gelernt. Auch der Magen muss natürlich an die lokalen Spezialitäten adaptiert werden 😉
Heute Nachmittag werde ich jetzt noch etwas die lokalen Kulturschätze bestaunen gehen, bevor die Pizzaparty für alle Teilnehmer startet.
Körperlich fühle ich mich zum Glück wieder einsatzfähig, nachdem mich letzte Woche ein Magendarminfekt oder eine Lebensmittelvergiftung ganz schön Substanz gekostet haben. Da ich sowieso eher der ektomorphe Typ bin, waren die 3kg Gewichtsverlust alles andere als positiv für mein Wohlbefinden und meine Leistungsfähigkeit. On top kam auch noch die zweite Impfdosis, so dass das Training gelinde gesagt etwas gelitten hat. Ich zähle also darauf, dass die Formkurve im Verlauf des Rennens wie bei einem guten Klassementfahrer noch ansteigt 😉 In der Zwischenzeit sind auch die Blasen vom Race Across Italy abgeklungen und die Haut darunter schon wieder belastbar. Und auch der große Zehennagel vom letztjährigen Hope 1000 ist schon fast gänzlich ausgetauscht.
Also beste Voraussetzungen für ein paar unbeschwerte Tage Dolce Vita durch Süditalien vom Feinsten. Drückt mir die Daumen, dass das Rad dieses Mal heil bleibt 😊